Amarnath
Amarnath, regarded as one of the holy places of pilgrimage by devout Hindus, and is located in the glacial valley at 13700 ft., 145 km east of Srinagar in Kashmir.
Inside a cave, which is 150 ft high and 90 ft. long, there is a big ice Shiva Linga, flanked by three more ice formations symbolizing the figures of Goddess Parvati, Ganesha and Bhairava. The Lingas change size with the change of season. On the full moon day of “Sravana” (July-August) every year, the Shiva Linga becomes the longest (more than 6 ft) and appears before the devotees as an image with indescribable divine charm. This day is celebrated with great fanfare by the devotees. The spectacles of beautiful valleys and mountains surrounding the place generate a feeling of indescribable divine joy that brings the devotees closer to God.
The Legend
Lord Shiva belongs to the Holy Trinity revered by the Hindus. Rig Veda, the oldest book of the Hindus, describes Lord Shiva as the purifier since the dawn of time.
It all started with Goddess Parvati’s question to Lord Shiva – why and when did the Lord started wearing the beads of heads (Munda Mala)? Goddess also expressed Her surprise at the fact that She dies innumerable times but Lord Shiva is immortal. What was the secret behind this? Shiva postponed his reply for a long time because the great secret should not be known to the ordinary living beings. However, he finally succumbed to Goddess Parvati’s insistence and went on a search for a deserted place where no living being could overhear the secret of His immortality and creation of the universe. He chose Amarnath as the best place for its solitude and confidentiality. In course of preparing for his session with Goddess Parvati, he left his bull Nandi at Pahalgam, released the Moon from his hair at Chandanwari and released the snakes at the bank of Lake Sheshnag. The Lord also left his son Ganesha at Mahagunas Parvat. At Panjtarani, Shiva left the five elements behind – earth, water, air, fire and sky- which all the living beings are composed of. To make sure that no living being could overhear the immortal tale, he created Rudra (Kalagni) and ordered him to spread fire to drive away all living beings from the neighboring areas. However, when he started narrating the secret of immortality to Goddess Parvati, one egg that was lying beneath the Deer skin on which the Lord and Goddess Parvati were seated, remained protected. Two pigeons were born out of this egg. They became immortal because they had listened to the tale of immortality narrated by Lord Shiva to Goddess Parvati. On their arduous route to the Holy Cave of Amarnath, many pilgrims are said to see the pair of pigeons.
It is said that the Holy Cave was first discovered by a shepherd named Buta Malik. A saint gave a bag of coal to Buta Malik. On arriving at his home, the shepherd opened the bag and found the bag full of gold coins. Overwhelmed with joy, he rushed out of his home to thank the saint but by that time the saint had disappeared. It was during his search for the saint that he discovered the Holy Cave and Shiva Lingam. He told this story to the villagers and in course of time, the Holy Cave became a sacred place of pilgrimage.
There is another ancient story regarding the Amarnath Cave. The valley of Kashmir was inundated by water. Kashyap Rishi channeled the water through a number of rivers. Bhrigu Rishi, who had set out to visit the Himalayas, had sighted the Holy Cave. The local people came to know of the discovery. With the passage of time, the Cave came to be regarded as an abode of Lord Shiva.
When to go
Every year, the Government of Jammu and Kashmir organize “Amarnath Yatra” in the months of July-August. The climate in Amarnath being very uncertain, the exact date of the “Yatra” varies according to the changing weather conditions and the “tithi” of Raksha Bandhan.
How to reach
There is no direct road or rail link with Amarnath. Jammu and Srinagar are connected through road. Buses and taxis can be hired on daily as well as full tour basis.
The nearest railway station is Jammu, which happens to be the winter capital of Jammu and Kashmir. Jammu is famous for Raghunath Temple, Mahadev Mandir and other temples which also attract a large number of devotees every year. Jammu is connected to all railway stations across India.
The nearest airport is at Srinagar. Tourists can avail regular flights from Delhi, Chandigarh and Amritsar to Srinagar. There are some major places of interest in Srinagar that attract tourists from all over the world, the most notable of them being Dal Lake, Nagina Lake, Mughal Garden and Shankaracharya Temple.
Jammu is the common starting point for the journey to Amarnath. Owing to difficult weather conditions and the steep climb, the 45 km trek is very strenuous. The trek can be covered in 4 days, with night halts at Chandanwari, Sheshnag and Panchtarni. Recently, motor transport has been introduced on the route from Pahelgam to Chandanwari.
On the entire trek, the pilgrims come across picturesque scenery that includes flowing streams and the glaciers. The older, weaker pilgrims can avail porters, ponies and “dandies” along their trek to the Holy Cave shrine.
Where to stay
The tourists who visit the Holy Amarnath Cave Shrine stay at tented camps at night on the entire route. Panchtarni is the last stop from where the tourists go to the Holy Cave. The start their return journey on the same day.
However, those who visit Srinagar on their way back home, Deluxe Houseboat is the most attractive option apart from hotels.
Places to visit
Chandanwari
In Amarnath, places to visit are the places that the pilgrims go through on the trek to Amarnath. From Pahalgam, the pilgrims’ first halt is at Chandanwari which is a small valley located at the junction of the streams of Sheshnag and Astanmarg. It is 16 kms from Pahalgam. Pilgrims stay in the tents at Chandanwari.
Sheshnag
Located 13kms from Chandanwari, this is the gustiest place in this valley. This mountain lake derives its name from its seven peaks, which is similar to the heads of the proverbial snake. The pilgrims have to trek along steep inclines up the bank of a flowing stream and spellbinding beauty of Nature.
Panchtarni
Pilgrims have to trek 13 kms from Sheshnag to Panchtarani. They have to walk through Mahaguna Pass at 4,600 mts and descend to the meadow-lands of Panchtarani, the last camp en route to the Holy Cave.
From Panchtarni, the pilgrims start for Amarnath Cave, which is only 6 kms away. There is a stream flowing outside the Cave where most of the pilgrims take a dip before entering the Cave shrine.
Srinagar
After trekking down to Pahalgam via Chandanwari, many visitors leave for Srinagar and stay over there to visit a number of places of historical interest. The most sought after spots are Mughal Gardens, Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh. The last one was built by Jehangir for his wife Noor Jehan. The sight of the gardens, which are situated on the bank of Dal Lake, in the background of Zabarwan Mountains, is truly heart warming.
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